Scroll Down

Learn more about looking after your car



Just under twenty percent of MOT failures are caused by a dead bulb. Run through the list below to ensure you’ve checked all your bulbs. If you don’t have anyone to help you check your bulbs, park up close to a wall or garage door. It's worth mentioning that some indicator and brake light bulbs have a colour coating which starts to peel as they get old. As the colour peels off, the bulb shines white and is a test failure, even though the bulb itself is working. Check the colours are correct at the same time as making sure they all work. Check all light fittings are secure and there and no cracks or damage. Headlights: Main beam and dipped Sidelights: Front & rear Indicators: Front, rear & side Brake lights Number plate lights (only on the rear plate!) Reverse lights (not actually part of an MOT but worth checking) Rear fog light (front fogs not checked) Hazard lights (check seperately from indicators to make sure circuit works)


The minimum legal tread depth for a tyre is 1.6mm in a continous band around the tyre for ¾ of the tyre’s width. Check for damage on the tyres such as splits in the tread, bulges or cuts in the sidewalls as these could cause the tyre to fail. Take a look at the tyre sizes to make sure the front tyres are the same size and the rear tyres are be the same size. (They can be different sizes front to back but not on the same axle.) Check there are no missing wheels nuts or any large areas of damage to the wheels themselves. A spare wheel is not actually a requirement for an MOT and is will not be checked unless it is being used on the car at the time. Note: A car will not pass an MOT with a temporary spare wheel (also known as a ‘space saver’) fitted as a road wheel..


Check over the windscreen for any chips and cracks. Chips over 10mm in the driver’s line of sight (roughly the width of the steering wheel) or over 40mm in the area swept by the wipers will cause the car to fail the MOT. See example Any sort of heavy scratching that limits the drivers vision will also cause the car to a fail the test. You can avoid small stone chips turning into cracks by getting them repaired as soon as possible. This will stop them spreading any further and potentially avoid fitting a new windscreen.


Wiper blades should clear the screen across their entire length. Check the rubber by lifting them up and look for splits or perishing. Give them a and that they are securely attached to the wiper arm.


Top up the screen wash before taking the car for an MOT and test the jets to make sure they operate correctly. Blocked nozzles can be easily cleared with a pin.


The steering system isn’t something you’ll be able to check easily apart from making sure the wheels can turn freely from lock to lock and the power steering is working correctly if you have it.


The fuel cap needs to lock securely in place and the seal inside the cap shouldn’t be split or perished.


The exhaust needs to be held on securely and not have any holes (apart from the obvious one at the end!). If your car exhaust is sounding louder than normal there’s a good chance it has a hole in it. You might be able to tell by getting your ear low to the ground on the driver’s side and listening carefully as you blip the accelerator (when the car is parked). If you go over a bump and the exhaust clunks on the underside of the car, the rubber mounts may be worn and in need of replacement.


The horn needs to work and be loud enough to attract the attention of pedestrians or other motorists. Musical air horns are a guaranteed fail!


The mirrors need to be in place and secure, i.e. not held to the car with sticky tape and string. The glass shouldn’t be cracked or smashed.

11. BODY

The car’s bodywork must be free from heavy corrosion, not be badly damaged or have sharp edges sticking out. The front doors should work from inside and outside and the rear doors will need to work so other parts of the test can be completed such as seat belt checks. The boot and bonnet need to close securely.


Most checks on the braking system require specialist knowledge but there are some easy things you can test. Make sure the rubber on all the pedals isn’t worn away and if your car has ABS, the warning light should go out after the car is started. The hand brake should hold the car on a hill.


Front and back plates need to be secured properly to the car and not cracked, faded or hidden by dirt. The letters and numbers should be standard and evenly spaced.


All the seat belt buckles should latch and fasten securely and lock when you give them a sharp tug. The belts need to be in good condition, not cut or badly frayed. The seats must be firmly bolted down; grab the base of each seat and try rocking it.


The best way to ensure your car passes the emissions test with ease is to have the car serviced prior to its MOT. On top of this, if your car hasn’t been run in a while or is mainly used for short town journeys, take it on a longer motorway type journey where a higher engine speed is sustained for a greater length of time. This helps to clean out sooty deposits from the engine prior to the emissions test.


Class 4 Mot Centre based in Yeovil, Somerset, provide top quality Servicing, Car Repairs, Car MOT's, Welding, Exhaust, Brakes, Cam Belts, Clutch Replacement, Batteries. We also offer a large range of Tyre's fitted while you wait. We are located in a convenient position in the town centre and have a small team of reliable and experienced mechanics.


Website design Yeovil, Somerset by AztecMedia